After a one-year postponement due to the health crisis, the Saint-Etienne International Design Biennial is back, from 6 April to 31 July 2022, with the theme "Bifurcations".

This is an opportunity for the Collectif FU (Fil Utile) from Saint-Etienne to present an exhibition entitled "Relier-Délier" from 5 April to 22 May 2022, in which a creation made in bifurcation with Rachel Magnard and Philippe Hervouet will be exhibited.

The Collectif FU was founded in 2020 in St Etienne. It is the result of an initiative by several committed figures in the textile sector, driven by the idea of promoting links between practices and by the desire to break out of the isolation of workshops, in a period stigmatised by withdrawal. Together, they wish to develop synergies in order to create a network of men and women in the trade, with the aim of enhancing the value of a textile sector in constant metamorphosis, rich in meaning, turned towards new challenges, and sensitive to the essential choices to be made for the future.

RELIER-DELIER is a choral work both in form and in the diversity of the people it represents and links.

It is first and foremost a game with well-established rules, to which the thirteen members of the Collectif FU have lent themselves.

With sometimes distant influences and singular practices, each of them invests a gesture, a technique, a process, a support that are their own on the basis of a material that they have picked up at random. All the materials from the different workshops have the colour yellow in common in order to guarantee visual coherence.

Then, during a "bifurcation", each invites an outside practice or the use of another material to interfere in the "work" during an open dialogue.

The process is the project. At the forefront of this game, it informs us about the diversity and plurality of practices that question the territory of textiles and textile objects today. The playful constraints make it possible to displace the codes, by pushing the technicality elsewhere. It is a question here of exchanging and questioning ways of doing things in order to revisit each time something of the link that each person has with history and memory, with transmission, with gesture, with know-how, with innovation, and also with the local economy.

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avec :

Nadine Cahen
Chloé Chagnaud
Angélique Chesnesec
Anja Clerc | Gwendoline Del Campo
Marie Colin Madan  | Oseiduro et Noémie Dutel 
Sabine Feliciano  | Gisèle Jacquemet
Jeanne Goutelle
Hélène Jospé  | Rachel Magnard 
Cotansa Matteucci
Valérie Metras
Rugiada Petrelli | Hélène Lequertier et Royx
Bruno Rosier | Marrit Veenstra
Sara Revil | Jean-Jacques Cornillon
Dominique Torrente

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Indeed, the heritage of a long and varied textile tradition in the Loire region has given rise to the emergence of numerous skills and strong individual practices which are asserted through autonomous and often experimental forms of expression.
The multi-disciplinary approaches, ranging from design to the exercise of the craft, via contemporary art, create connections and invent new ways of creating, of telling stories and of meeting.
The thread, the stitch, the step, the knot, the interlacing, the warp, the weft, the pattern brings us back to the very idea of the link. They are each time the unit which allows to elaborate, to build, to structure, to organize, to link.
RELIER-DELIER brings us back to the gestures inherent to the textile trades, to those that we seek to reproduce and pass on from generation to generation, the gestures that we free from dust, those that we free from history, and finally, all the gestures and postures that we invent to build the future.*

exhibition of the Collectif FU
Linking Untying
salle des cimaises St Etienne
During the XII International Design Biennial
from 6th April to 22nd May 2022

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